Spotlight on Regency Fashion: the pelisse

By Donna Hatch

Ladies in Regency England had more reasons to change clothes than the modern-day woman would ever believe. They had special clothes for relaxing at home, walking, riding, going for a drive in a carriage, afternoon gowns, evening gowns, ball gowns, etc. And the number of accessories is even more mind-boggling.

But one of the Regency ladies' fashion accessories was practical as well as fashionable. It was the pelisse. Generally lightweight, Regency ladies wore this long over-garment to protect her clothes from dust and dirt. Since many roads were unpaved, walking and riding in a carriage produced dust and dirt that would sully a gown. And since fashionable ladies often wore white or light colors as a status symble, keeping clothing clean in a not-so-terribly clean environment must have proved challenging. Big cities such as London were even dirtier with all the soot polluting the air from burning coal.

Wearing a pelise became an indespensible part of fashion, as well as a necessary garment, outside one's home. Though pelisses didn't generally take the place of a warm coat or cloak, they also added a layer of warmth in the event the weather took a sudden turn.

I have additional pictures of pelisses and gowns on my Pinterest Regency and Jane Austen Page.


Donna Hatch is a noted Regency researcher, enthusiast, and historical romance author. You can visit her website at www.donnahatch.com
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Regency Sun Protection

by Donna Hatch

Unlike the sun-kissed tans admired by some women today, (and let's face it, chalk-white legs just aren't coveted) a pale complexion was a fashion statement during much of England's history. Since laborers often worked long hours outside, their skins got tanned and weathered from exposure to the sun and the elements. A lady with a creamy complexion loudly proclaimed, without uttering a word, that she was wealthy enough not to have to spend a great deal of time out of doors. But since a lady's skin could become unfashionably brown simply by walking outside, even with the protection of a hat or bonnet, she had to take measures to protect her skin from the sun.

During previous eras, ladies and gentlemen of the upper classes powered their faces to maintain a pale complexion.  But by the Regency Era, people abandoned the powder, rouge, lipstick, and powered wigs, as well as ostentatiously ornate clothing, in favor of a more natural, comfortable look. They also started bathing on a regular basis, which I think is not a coincidence.

What was a lady to do if she wanted to spend time outside but keep her skin alabaster white without the use of powder? Sunscreen, obviously, was not the answer, since it had yet to be invented. Bonnets and hats certainly helped but there were times when those failed to protect a lady's face from all angles of the sun.

Enter the parasol. Made of natural fabrics such as cotton and silk and often embellished with lace, these functional little beauties became so popular in England early in the 19th century that they became part of a fashionable ensemble.  Depending on how they were made, they could even protect a lady from a light rain.

So the next time your Regency lady goes for a walk, make sure she brings her bonnet and parasol to keep her face un-freckled and white, and her gloves to protect her hands, lest she fall under criticism of becoming "brown." Horrors!

For more pictures, feel free to check out  my Regency Accessories Pinterest Board with lots of images and fashion plates of parasols, fans, shoes, and other fun Regency accessories.

Laura Boyl on Jane Austen Center has some lovely pictures of ladies and children carrying parasols.

Louise Allen, on her blog, History of Costume, has a great collection of pictures as well as how the "correct" way to hold a parasol evolved.

Sources:

http://janeaustenslondon.com/tag/history-of-costume/

http://www.janeausten.co.uk/parasols/

Gentlemen's Gloves

Gloves were as much a fashion statement as shoes or a hat, and just as functional, as well. To the best of my knowledge the gentlemen wore white gloves while inside a house. These were not the same gloves they wore against the cold, just outside, or when riding /driving, they were softer, lighter and white.

In this picture, the two gentlemen are wearing gloves,and one has the right one off, possibly to shake a hand. They are clearly dressed to the nines so they are possibly on their way to make a call or to attend a soiree.

How long they kept them on is a different story. They did not wear gloves when dining or when playing cards, of course. The etiquette about man's gloves was slightly different than that concerning women's gloves so there might be more times when they could go about without their gloves. For instance, gentlemen usually took off their gloves when they made a social call (they would be wearing outdoor gloves, and would leave them with their hat -- or hold them with their hat) while women would keep on their gloves unless eating or drinking tea. I think men were supposed to take off their glove to shake hands but women kept theirs on. Still, gloves were part of the man's evening and daytime attire. Of course, men and women both wore gloves when ever they went out of the house.


In this picture, the gentleman is dressed to go riding or hunting and has on the appropriate heavier leather gloves.

When a man came calling, his right hand glove always had to be removed because the gloved hand was never given to a lady, with the exception of dance. So when a gentleman arrived in a drawing room, he held his hat and single right hand glove in his left hand and would greet the lady with his right, ungloved hand. The whole idea of wearing only one glove and holding onto the hat is based upon the fact that it was a privilege to call upon a lady and unless she permitted him to place his hat and gloves aside, he was ready to leave in a moment's notice upon her request without being rude. Of course there were some jokes about that as well. That the hat was safer in one's hand depended upon who you were calling ;-)

Once the hostess invited the man to stay, both gloves were removed and the hat set down. On all other occasions, it appears that when in public (dancing, balls, opera), gloves were almost always worn by a man, except during dining.

Gloves bespoke of a man's wealth and character and were specifically tailored to a person's hand. So if there unusually large in appearance and did not fit well, people took note that a.) they were borrowed (heaven forbid!) or b.) funds were low (mothers beware!)

Gentlemen were expected to take their hats in with them into the drawing room and not to leave them on tables or benches in the foyer or hallway. Also says the man should put his hat under his chair with his gloves in it (one assumes the hostess has had the floors well dusted, swept.)

Gorgeous Men in Tight Breeches and Ruffled Shirts

Today we'll talk about men's clothes in the Regency era, which occurred about two hundred years ago in England. This post is a primer on the subject, because I'm no expert. But in order for my stories to ring true, I must know how to dress--and undress--my hero.

Our modern world began to take shape in the Regency. Many facets of the era are recognizable to our eyes, including men's clothes.

Here’s a list the Regency gentleman's wardrobe, and the modern equivalent, as close as I can find: (I apologize for the ragged table, but blogger is not cooperating.)

Modern--Regency

jacket--coat

shirt--shirt

undershirt--no equivalent

vest--waistcoat

suspenders--braces

tie--cravat

belt--no equivalent

boxer shorts--drawers

trousers--breeches, pantaloons, trousers (the Regency gentleman had 3 lengths)

socks--stockings (not quite the same)

boots--boots

shoes--shoes

Fabrics of choice were wool and linen because they were produced in the British Isles. Imported fabrics, like silk, and our everyday workhorse material, cotton, were luxury items and used mainly by the rich.

Here's a description of male attire from my Regency time travel, Lady of the Stars. The twenty-first century heroine, Caroline, gets her first good look at the Regency hero, Richard:

Good heavens, the aggravating man was gorgeous. Tall and slim, his broad shoulders tapered to narrow hips and long legs. But where had he found that outlandish outfit? He wore a top hat, out here in the middle of nowhere. His shirt collar was turned up and he wore a huge white tie. And his waist-length, double-breasted jacket had tails, like the one an orchestra conductor wore. Muddy black boots with the tops turned down came up to his knees. Skintight trousers, or were those breeches--of all things?--emphasized every well-formed muscle.

This passage illustrates another aspect of Regency men's clothes: they were tight. A man's coat often fit so closely he needed help putting it on, and then he might be unable to lift his arms as high as his shoulders. Form-fitting breeches literally left little to the imagination. Then, as now, such clothes could look good only on men with the best physiques, like romance novel heroes.

The Regency hero--a handsome man with a great physique and gorgeous clothes. What a fantasy.

Thank you all,
Linda

Regency Reticules

Reticules, pronounced (rett i kyoòl) were sometimes called ridicules, because people thought it ridiculous to carry one’s valuables on one’s arm rather than hidden inside a belt or pocket. The etymology dictionary places the origin upon the French word réticule, and the Latin word reticulum, meaning a small mesh bag.

Reticules were small purses carried by ladies, and became a fashion accessory, as well as a necessity, in the late 1790s. Before then, women carried their purses around their waist, hidden by the panniers and wide hooped skirts. When the Empire style gown came into fashion, that practice was no longer possible. So, ladies began carrying them on their wrists.

Made of fabric or crocheted, often with silk or metallic thread, reticules were often created by ladies at home. Therefore, they greatly varied in style and color. They were usually held together with a small clasp or drawstring. The more elaborate purses which were beaded or made with elaborate needlepoint didn’t crop up until the mid Victorian Era.

And when I say they were small, they typically measured between 2 inches and 5 inches from the top of the clasp or drawstring, to the bottom where the seam or tassel was found. They were barely large enough to carry a few coins, a handkerchief, the ever-important calling card, perhaps a Vinaigrette and maybe a tin of breath mints, but little else. It was possible to carry a very small handgun inside a larger reticule, but it would have made the reticule quite heavy and there wouldn’t have been room for much else. A regency lady would be shocked at the size of our handbags today, and by what ladies carry in them!

Some lovely fashion plates from Regency England

This is evening wear from La Belle Assemblee, listed as Parisian Fashions, taken from a Group of Conversation Figures at the Frescati, in Paris.

The gentlemen look smashing, too, but only the lady’s gown is described.

A white Italian crape robe, over a white satin slip, ornamented round the bottom and drapery with a border of shells, painted to nature. Plain scolloped bosom cut very low, and made to sit close to the form. Waved sleeves, easily full, formed of alternate stripes of crape and pink satin. Hair, bound in smooth bands, confined on the forehead, and ornamented behind with wreaths of wild roses. Earrings and necklace of pearls. Shoes, pink satin, trimmed with silver. White kid gloves, rucked.




This is an interesting picture comparing 18th century fashion with the "new" Regency Style. The new is listed as a “July Gown.” Isn’t it charming? It’s very much in the classical style. The two silhouettes of the ladies are so different that the the older generation must have thought the new styles indecent. This appeared in the Ladies Monthly Museum as a Full Dress, yet description seems to have focused on the hair:

Hair fashionably Dressed ornamented with white Flowers and Ostrich Feathers. A Train of clear Muslin over a Dress of Lilac Sarsenet; round the Bottom of the Train a deep White Lace; the sleeves made very full, and looped up with a Diamond Button. White Gloves, and Lilac Ridicule.