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Showing posts with label cravat. Show all posts
Showing posts with label cravat. Show all posts

Friday, June 7, 2013

How to Tie a Cravat

Any well dressed, fashionable man living in Regency England prided himself on having a perfectly tied cravat, or necktie. Some were so fussy about their cravats that they went through a dozen starched neckcloths until they got exactly the look they desired. Of course, having a skilled valet who specialized in knots would be a great commodity. After achieving the perfect knot, the trick was not to move one's head enough to muss the creation.  Some gentlemen changed the knots for the occasion, others prided themselves on having one particular signature look. The kind of knots a man used often said much about him--the more difficult knots would tell people that this man was very fastidious, and prided himself on his appearance.

A really great illustration of the various types of knots can be found at Nekclothitania  along with instructions.  Here is a picture I found on Wikimedia Commons showing the most popular knots for a Regency gentleman's cravat.



Each type of knot had a name; for example, the Mathematical, the Waterfall, the Oriental, etc. I have read that the Waterfall, also called the Mail Coach, consisted of taking a very starched tie, wrapping it around the neck and lowering the chin so the creases fell into a uniform pattern, and tucking the ends into the waistcoat. Supposedly Beau Brommell, (pictured below) accredited with making cravat knots an art form, preferred this type of type because it catered to his fussiness--apparently this style was so difficult  to achieve that he went through dozens of ties until he got exactly the right look. Talk about a dandy, right?

Some knots require the waistcoat (which looks like a vest) to be off, while others clearly must be left outside the waistcoat in order to achieve the right look. It also depended on the waistcoat. Some had high, attached collars which would pretty much require the cravat be tied first and tucked inside.

Most cravats were white, but some called for colors, and some informal gentleman's clubs also called for a certain color or cravat to distinguish them as members.

For those of you looking for something more modern, there is a great tutorial on how to tie a Windsor Knot on You Tube here

For once, I'm glad as a woman, I will probably never have to tie something this complicated :-)



Wednesday, January 19, 2011

Cravats and Croates: History of Men's Ties




Although men may have worn neckwear since ancient times, probably for warmth, the first neckwear is generally traced to the period of the Thirty Years War in the 17th century. Croatian mercenaries, fighting alongside the French, wore small knotted neckerchiefs, like the one pictured to the right. The Croatian word for Crotes was Hrvati.
Parisiennes, enamored with this unfamiliar neckwear, combined the French word for the Croatian nationality, Croates, with Hrvati, and the neckwear became a cravat.
The cravats started a new craze in Europe, and soon both men and women were wearing cravats. Men’s frequently were made of lace, held in place with cravat strings tied in a bow.
During the 18th century, cravats briefly fell out of favor, replaced with a stock, a folded piece of muslin wrapped around a shirt collar. Men wore their hair long, below the shoulder, and tucked the ends into black silk bags worn at the nape of the neck. This was called the bag-wig hairstyle.
In the latter part of the century, cravats again became popular. Around the turn of the century, different methods of tying the cravat came into play, and a book was published, Neckclothitania, which illustrated fourteen ways to tie a cravat. This book was the first to use the word tie in association with neckwear.