© Cheryl Bolen
For most of the Regency era, sailboats were the only way to
cross the English Channel. These depended upon the kindness of the winds. An
exceedingly swift crossing could breeze along in three hours. Reports of
18-hour crossings are not uncommon. It was said the journey from Dover to
Calais was much speedier than the one from Calais to Dover because of the
winds.
Factor in that crossings could be delayed for days because
of unfavorable winds. Fanny Burney’s father once waited in Dover for nine days
before the winds were obliging for his sailing to Calais. Sailing must commence
during low tide, also.
Polish scholar Krystyn Lack-Szyrma, whose London Observed (from 1820-1824) was
published in English in 2009, recorded comprehensive details about his stay in
Calais and crossing the channel. His voyage, for which he paid one guinea, took
six hours—most of which rendered him very seasick.
If you’re interested in knowing things like how much it cost to sail from Dover to Calais or the price of gentlemen’s lodging in London, I highly recommend reading Lack-Szyrma’s journal. Of all the ones I’ve read from the era, this one is THE best. He spent several years studying British government, penal system, courts, history and almost every aspect of the country and explains them in clearly understood layman’s terms. Titled London Observed: A Polish Philosopher atLarge, 1820-24, it’s annotated and edited by Mona Kesslie McLeod, a retired lecturer at Edinburgh University.—Cheryl Bolen’s newest release is Miss Darcy’s New Companion, a Pride & Prejudice Variation, Book 1 in the Jane Austen Sequels. More information at her website.
He gives us readers two centuries later a glimpse of the
interior of these packet boats with his thorough words pictures. He tells us
the spacious cabins were illuminated by a window which faces the deck. Each side
of the cabin is fitted with rows of compartments, stacked two high. The bunks
are furnished with clean, white bed linens, which Lack-Szyrma says is the only
color linen the English will have. The bunks are curtained with either green or
red. Men’s cabins are segregated from women’s.
Here is Lack-Szyrma’s account of seasickness.
The ship was rolling
on the waves more and more, causing the unbearable suffering called seasickness
and those who are used to sailing are spared. Even to describe the symptoms of
the sickness in not pleasant. Sufferers have stomach cramps and are prone to vomiting.
They suffer from vertigo and see coloured spots before their eyes, especially
green ones. The most unpleasant feeling is when a huge breaker, having raised
the ship high, brings it crashing down. Your whole body feels numb. The
weakness is so tormenting, that it almost makes you lose interest in life. In
case of a violent storm, it must make people insensitive to danger, thus
mitigating the horror of a shipwreck.
He goes on to report that even after reaching land and
standing on firm ground, the seasickness does not promptly go away. (Oh, dear,
I got that wrong in more than one of my books.)
The first steamboat appeared on the English channel in 1818
but these weren’t widely used until nearly a decade later. Lack-Szyrma tells us
that by 1827 England had almost 200 steamships, but in America, where they were
built, the number was much greater. Not all these 200 were used for crossing
the channel. Steamboats were a common means of transport to and from Edinburgh
from points south, especially London.
Lack-Szyrma gives an account of a steamboat owner in Calais
inviting a few members of the municipal council for a short sail in his
steamer. “They agreed to his request, but when it was time to go on board, they
got frightened and each of them looked for an excuse not to take part in this
trip. Such an important invention aroused people’s anxiety in those days!”
If you’re interested in knowing things like how much it cost to sail from Dover to Calais or the price of gentlemen’s lodging in London, I highly recommend reading Lack-Szyrma’s journal. Of all the ones I’ve read from the era, this one is THE best. He spent several years studying British government, penal system, courts, history and almost every aspect of the country and explains them in clearly understood layman’s terms. Titled London Observed: A Polish Philosopher atLarge, 1820-24, it’s annotated and edited by Mona Kesslie McLeod, a retired lecturer at Edinburgh University.—Cheryl Bolen’s newest release is Miss Darcy’s New Companion, a Pride & Prejudice Variation, Book 1 in the Jane Austen Sequels. More information at her website.
7 comments:
I am surprised that such a short voyage could be so miserable. Since I've never been in water that rough, I have not yet experienced seasickness but I know how misery can create such apathy. Thanks for pointing out that seasickness doesn't go away immediately upon reaching land--that's a detail I certainly would have gotten wrong if I'd written about it. Great details filled with lots of pertinent information!
I am writing an historical novel based in the 9th century about a woman who actually lived. She was reared in France, or Francia, and was married to a king of Mercia in what is now England. How long would such a crossing take? And I just realized I need to find out how long she would have had to ride to get to the ships.
Also, would the ships have been equipped with oars for the men to paddle in the event of the wind dying down? I thought so based on what I have researched, but you are saying "wind power only" so I may be wrong.
This is all new to me.
Thanks, Susan Lewis
Thank you.Very informative I am doing some research for my book which involves channel crossings in the 19 c. I have never heard of that journal.I will try to find it. Have fun.
Rita
3 hours sounds right in good weather.they were crossing the channel since and before Roman times.
Funny, seems like more than one writer is trying to learn details of crossing the channel. I'm searching for information such as crossings from Britain / London to the Netherlands in the mid-Seventeenth century for my historical fiction writing.
Cross channel travel, history of.
I suddenly got interested in this subject (history of cross channel transport , say up to ww 2). For no particular reason except I’ve recently wondered how for ex 18 th century travellers from German states, Austria, Italy managed to get to England. For ex Haydn and Mozart.
What patience these travellers had. I see there must have been huge waits at Calais for ex as there presumably weren’t sufficient travellers to warrant regular sailings. Plus departures depended on the tides, not like now.
So how did all this work?
I haven’t done any proper research but can’t see anywhere a ‘history of cross channel travel’ having been done.
I'm interested in this also Michael Gaum but even more specifically during the 17th century. How for example, did British book collectors / booksellers in London's Saint Paul's churchyard, transport collections they'd purchased at auction in Leiden, back to their shops? Please LMK if you uncover any research. Thank you!
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